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1 coarse weave
rupjš audums -
2 coarse
coarse [kɔ:s](a) (rough in texture, appearance) gros (grosse), grossier; (skin, hands) rugueux, rêche; (hair) rêche; (sandpaper) épais(aisse); (salt) gros (grosse); (features) grossier, lourd(b) (vulgar → person, behaviour, remark, joke) grossier, vulgaire; (→ laugh) gros (grosse), gras; (→ accent) commun, vulgaire(c) (inferior → food, drink) ordinaire, commun;∎ this is a fairly coarse wine ce vin n'est pas très fin►► coarse cloth drap m grossier;coarse fish poisson m d'eau douce (sauf truite et saumon);coarse fishing pêche f à la ligne en eau douce;coarse grain gros grain m;coarse linen grosse toile f;coarse weave texture f grossière -
3 Stockinette Weave
A weave much used for producing spongy fabrics from coarse yarns. It is a rearranged 2 & 2 twill weave. -
4 Bijar Rugs
All-wool Persian rugs, of a stout coarse weave, in Ghiordes knot with the "buried thread" warp system. The colours are chiefly reds and blues -which are usually massed. The patterns are somewhat indistinct, the borders are simple and usually of three-stripes only. Wool warp and weft, and a pile of wool. -
5 Repps
The true repp is a plain weave fabric having both warp and weft arranged one thread fine, one thread coarse. The coarse ends are always lifted above the coarse picks, and fine ends over the fine picks, thus producing more prominent transverse ribs than those of the poplin. Two beans are used, with the fine warp more heavily weighted than the coarse warp. The illustration shows the true repp weave in cross-section, A is the coarse warp and C coarse weft, B is fine warp and D fine weft. A and B are alternately set.
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6 Canvas
There are many fabrics termed canvas. The principal kinds are: - Cloths for embroidering, which are very strong, plain weave, from two, three or fourfold yarns, and a more or less open texture. Java Canvas is a fabric made from hard twist, yarns (loth warp and weft) and a mock leno weave. A Canvas which is shipped grey or finished, and made from coarse yams, hard twist, about 8's warp, 12's weft, 40-ends, 34 picks, in widths 26-in. to 32-m in plain weave. Sail Canvas is a stout built cloth from two-fold linen warp and coarse cotton weft. A Dress Canvas, woven from linen warp and cotton weft, such as 60's linen and 32's cotton, 74 ends and 76 picks per inch, 39 in wide, dyed in many colours Canvas Duck is made from coarse tow yarns, low reeds and picks, and in many qualities. Panama Canvas, Penelope Canvas, Prelate Canvas, Asticot Canvas, Astoli Canvas - See under the various names. -
7 Book Harness Muslin
A brocade figured fabric of the Madras muslin character. The ground is plain weave and the figuring is produced from coarse weft in detached figures. The floating weft from figure to figure is cropped off. Qualities vary from 48 X 40 to 60 X 56 ground weave. The weft is two fine picks ground, two coarse picks figure. Warp from 50's to 60's. Cord checks are produced by using thick cords in warp as well as weft, and these cords are floated as required, and after weaving, the floats cropped off. The illustration is of a cloth which is rather expensive, owing to the large amount of weft that is wasted
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Book Harness Muslin
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8 Marseilles Quilts
A compound fabric consisting of two plain cloths joined together by a figuring warp to produce a pattern. Between the two cloths is inserted wadding weft of coarse yarn. A jacquard machine and heald shafts are required to weave the cloth. The healds weave the plain cloth, while the patterning ends are operated by the jacquard. Each pattern card serves for ten picks, viz., four picks of fine weft for the face cloth, four from the same shuttle for the back cloth, and two picks of coarse weft for wadding. The cloth can be woven from one beam, but two beams allow the tension on the stitching threads to be more correctly adjusted. The various qualities are termed 4-pick, 5-pick, etc., according to the number of picks woven for each jacquard card. One cloth is made 72 face ends 1/100's, 24 back ends, 20's, 40 face picks 32's, 40 back picks 32's, and 20 wadding picks 16's per inch, all cotton yarns. This cloth is an imitation of an Eastern fabric used as quilts, and made from a pure plain woven cloth, two pieces of the cloth being placed together one on the top of the other, and a thick cotton wadding placed between, the whole being stitched together by hand. Where no stitches were used the cloth bulged owing to the wadding between. -
9 Onion Pockets
A coarse bag made of jute yarns, 40-in. X 22 1/2-in., I2 oz. in weight. Plain weave, 8-lb. warp and weft. ———————— A coarse bag made of jute yarns, 40-in. X 221/2-in., 12 oz. in weight. Plain weave, 8-lb. warp and weft. -
10 Serge
SARGE, SERGEA coarse, woollen cloth known as early as the 12th century, a finer quality being called " say." It was much used during the Middle Ages for all portions of attire by the poorer classes, and in the piece for the decoration of houses. ————————SERGE (U.S.A.)The specification issued by the U.S.A. Government is as follows: - Cotton and worsted serge for overcoat lining shall be of single or 2-ply cotton warp and single or 2-ply worsted filling, the wool to be not below 46's grade; the width shall be full 36-in. exclusive of the selvedge and shall weigh from 6-oz. to 7-oz. per linear yard; it shall be woven in regular serge weave and constructed so as to give a fabric with good body and twill line on the face and containing approximately equal quantities of worsted and cotton yarns throughout; to be navy-blue, fast to the light, with both sets of threads and to be put up into bookfold. ———————— This term was formerly applied in Yorkshire to rough handling coarse wool fabrics woven in a twill design. An old 6-end serge was a simple diagonal 3 up, 1 down, 1 up, 1 down. The term serge is now almost universally understood to mean the 2 & 2 twill, and sometimes the 3 & 3 and the 4 & 4 twills. In wool fabrics it is the practice to add to the name serge, the definition of botany to distinguish fine wool serges from cross-bred qualities. A typical botany worsted serge, 2 & 2 twill weave, 21-02. per yard, 56/58-in. is made with 2/20's worsted 64/70's quality, S twist, 46 ends and 46 picks per inch, 72-in. wide in loom, woven white arid piece-dyed. The cloth is clear finished so as to obtain a well-defined twill effect. A usual weight for ladies' costume serge is 12/13-oz. per yard. Serges are made in many qualities ranging from 12-oz. to 26-oz. per yard. Crossbred worsted yarns are used in making the rougher and stronger types, while woollen yarns are also used. A serge which is extensively used in uniforms for transport workers is made with two-fold cross-bred worsted yarn for warp and single Cheviot woollen yarn for weft. The cloth is woven white or grey and piece-dyed. -
11 Oatmeal Cloths
Fabrics woven with fine warp and coarse weft, with a rough surface produced by an irregular crepe weave from 5 shafts upwards. The oatmeal weave is much used as a ground weave for dobby and jacquard effects. The oatmeal weave given is on 8 ends and 8 picks, but can be woven on 5 shafts. A fair quality is 76 ends and 76 picks per inch, 30's warp, 28's weft. all cotton. A coarser cloth has 50 ends and 40 picks per inch, 30's warp, 10's weft. Oatmeals are also made in wool, using crossbred yarns and a low reed and pick.
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12 Sponge Cloths
A piece of cloth such as unbleached duck or drill about 1/4 to 1/2 yard in size used to dampen materials before they are pressed. ———————— Cotton dress goods fabrics woven with a sponge or honeycomb weave on 10 ends which form hollows and ridges. Made in all widths and coarse yarns. Another style made with the leno weave is used for cleaning cloths or may be made plain weave, about 10 or 12 ends and 10 to 14 picks per inch, 6's to 10's warp and weft. -
13 Waste Cloths
Low-quality cotton fabrics made from hard twisted warp and waste weft in plain or twill weave. The warp is about 28's to 34's and weft from 8's to 1's or even coarser. Waste plains are plain weave. Waste twills or sheetings are the 2 & 2 weave. Waste cotton blankets are made in wide widths and coarse weft known as " Jumbo " cops are used, which are as large as can be accommodated in the shuttle. The cops are solid and the weft is unwound from the inside of the cop. There is no shuttle peg, but the inside walls of the shuttle are serrated to keep the cop in its place. (See Blankets) -
14 Blanket
Plain or twill weave cotton cloths, 60-in. and upwards in width and 80-in, and upwards in length. Made from coarse yams. Very coarse reeds are used. A soft spun coarse weft from 1's to 8's count is usual; sometimes a " bump " yam weft. Special shuttles are required to take the large or " jumbo " cops. Coloured weft headings are put in at each end. The fabrics are raised on both sides by passing several times through the raising machine. ———————— Thomas Blanket, of Bristol, first produced these in the reign of Edward III. The most popular makes are: - Irish - Size 84-in. X 95-in. in a 5-lb. weight. Yorkshire - 80-in. X 100-in, in all weights, woven plain, and have a dense pile when finished. Witney - This term can only be applied to blankets made in Witney. They resemble Yorkshire blankets. Ayrshire - Woven 2 X 2 twill with a dark-blue border. Bath (or Cheviot) - Woven 2 X 2 twill with light-blue borders and heavily raised. These fabrics are all manufactured from wool yams with a soft weft, heavily milled. Each style may be bordered or all plain. The qualities are numerous and weights vary from about 2-lb. up to 7-lb. or 8-lb. per blanket. -
15 Cantoon
A plain weave dyed cotton cloth used in China as a mummy cloth. It is only dyed in purple and blue They are stiff finished and embossed to give a firm and crisp handle. Qualities are low, about 52 X 56 per inch, 44's/52's yarns. ———————— A very heavy diagonal twill cloth of the fustian type. The proportion of picks to ends is about 7 or 8 to 1. The warp is two-fold and coarse weft, such as 60 X 380 per inch, 2/22's/20's. The weave repeats on 6-ends and 12 picks, as seen in the diagram. The cloth shows a cord effect at an oblique angle. Much used for riding and sporting garments, hangings, etc. The cloth is slightly raised at the back
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16 Coram
A heavy linen fabric of German make, plain weave, using a coarse warp and a fine weft in twill weave. -
17 Hopsacking
HOPSACK, or HOPSACKINGA woollen fabric, woven in hopsack weave is known under this name, and used for dress goods and suiting. ———————— A very coarse plain weave jute fabric used for bags. -
18 Linsey-Wolsey
A very strong and coarse fabric in 2 & 2 twill weave for rough wear. Made from linen or cotton warp and wool weft. Intended for country wear and hard usage. The warp is entirely covered by the weft twill weave, and the cloth has a nap finish. Qualities vary, one is made 32 ends and 20 picks per inch, 16's cotton warp and 6 skeins woollen weft. It was first manufactured at Linsey in Suffolk in the reign of Henry VII. -
19 Akura Cloth
A coarse, plain weave and hand-woven cloth made from coarse yams, used by the poorer classes in the Bankura district in Bengal. Varying from 20 X 20 to 20 X 28, 14's warp and weft. -
20 Bayette
The French name for the coarse baize made in Flanders known as baigue. Also a wool fabric made in plain weave and either bleached or dyed and napped one side. It is actually a coarse flannel.
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